B I G  R E D  T O U R

Where to travel with 4WD in the Australian Outback
WHERE TO GO HOW TO TRAVEL
HOW TO LIVE HOW TO SURVIVE HOW TO BEHAVE HOME

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Flinder's Ranges
Oodnadatta Track
Coober Pedy
Birdsville Track

WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Great Central Road /
Gunbarrel Highway

Canning Stock Route*
Mount Augustus*
Hamersley Ranges / Karijini NP
Millstream / Chichester Ranges NP
The Kimberleys (Gibb River Road and the Mitchell Plateau.)
Purnululu NP (The Bungle Bungles)
Tanami Track

NORTHERN TERRITORY
Uluru (Ayers Rock)
Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
West McDonnel Ranges
East McDonnel Ranges
Chambers Pillar Historical Reserve
Tanami Track
Plenty Highway
Sandover Highway
Litchfield NP
Kakadu NP
Gregory NP

QUEENSLAND
Daintree Rainforest (Cape Tribulation)
Bloomfield Track
Lakefield NP
Cape York (Old Telegraph Road)
Lawn Hill NP
Urandangi

NP stands for National Park

NEW SOUTH WALES / TASMANIA
I have not traveled by 4WD (and have not visited Tasmania at all) in those two states so I can not give any advice or information.

TOP SPOTS
It is very hard to pick out my absolute favourites in Australia, but if I have to, then my choice is The Kimberleys and the deserts around Alice Springs, especially Chamber's Pillar. However Kalamurina Homestead in the Simpson Desert (off the Birdsville Track) was another great experience. Driving the Gunbarrel Highway was yet another height. When the sun light entered Echidna Gorge in the Bungle Bungles, then it was as if angels had visited the Earth. True magic.

THE SECRET PLACES
And then my friends, there are a number of super super super spots in different places, that I have sworn the locals that I will never tell anyone about. ;-)
  If you come across these people and they think you are fair dinkum, a true and honest person, they might tell you as well. If you travel around Australia and noone ever tells you anything, well then you can figure out who and what you are. :-)

GUIDE BOOKS
I used Lonely Planet's Outback Australia as my main source of information. With a few exceptions their advice proved to be correct and the road information most valuable.

MAPS
Good maps are invaluable. You need a general road map of Australia and specialised maps of outback tracks.
  I can without any sort of concern recommend the Westprint Heritage Map series and the Street Smart maps. HEMA maps can not always be trusted. At least not their Cape York 4th edition map.

WHEN TO GO
North: When it's not rain season. The "Wet" lasts from November / December to March / April. May to September are lovely up in the north.
   Center: When it isn't summer. The summers are very hot and dry, over 40C. Travelling in the desert during summer is very dangerous. The winter nights in June to August are very cold, around 0C. The days are nice around, 20C.
   As a general advice I would try to do the Center in April / May or in September / October. The North I would visit from May to September.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP
First step to a safe journey is to plan your trip. E.g. do not travel through the Simpson Desert in a single 2WD vehicle.

Flinders Ranges 
Curdimurka
Crocodile Harry's Shitatorium Coober Pedy
Pete at Giles Weather Station Great Central Road
Windjana Gorge The Kimberleys
Big Mertens falls The Kimberley
Very rough road in the Kimberleys
Galvans Gorge The Kimberley
The Bungle Bungles Purnululu NP
Desert Oak West of Alice Springs
Petherick's Rainforest Litchfield National Park
Homestead The Kimberley
Wetlands Kakadu National Park
Lawn Hill National Park
Dragging a car through a river
Ruin of telegraphstation

This is a brief list of some main attractions in Outback Australia. There are more things to see, and more tracks to drive, but these are some of the most well known.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Flinder Ranges:
Beautiful montain ranges and valleys. Easy driving. Parachilna with their 11 friendly inhabitants is a must to visit. The Parachilna Hotel offers Janes and Ross hospitality and Bart's excellent feral gourmet food. Or go on a camel trip with Kevin Hucks!
   Oodnadatta Track: Classic outback track that follows the Old Ghan railway line towards Alice Springs. Easy driving. Great camping at Coward Springs. Great pub at William Creek. It's a one house town!
   Coober Pedy: The town where (some) people live under ground. Once Australia's wildest town. A bit touristy, but still worth seeing.
  Birdsville Track: Easy gravel road from Birdsville to Maree. The turn-off out to Kalamurina desert station is well worth the trip. Trevor and Andrea will help you out. A magic, fairy-tale desert landscape along the Warburton River.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Great Central Road - Gunbarrel Highway:
A great outback 4WD adventure through the Gibson Desert, from Ayers Rock towards Wiluna and Meekathara.
   Canning Stock Route: Desert track from Wiluna to Halls Creek. The ultimate adventure. Not for beginners. Not for single vehicles. Fuel drops at Well 23 needs to be arranged in advanced. I didn't do it, but people tells me it's great if you love deserts.
   Mount Augustus: The worlds greatest monolith is not Ayers Rock! I missed it since heavy rains had destroyed the roads.
   Hamersley Ranges - Karijini National Park: A mountain range with gorges of a beauty beyond description. A stay in the ghost town of Wittenom is a must. Talk to Irene in the Gem Shop if she's still around! She's got some very tall stories to tell.
   Millstream - Chichester Ranges National Park: A swim in the Python Pool on a hot day is an unforgettable experience. The drive from Millstream via Chichester Ranges out towards the coast is the definition of scenic drive.
   The Kimberleys (Gibb River Road): The most beautiful area in Australia. More gorges, waterfalls, animals, birdlife, fantastic nature, rock paintings and friendly people than you ever could have dreamt of. Old Mornington Bush Camp and Dimond Gorge is a top spot. The Mitchell Plateau is an interesting turn-off for the adventureous. The Mitchell Falls are like the mother of all waterfalls. The road up there with the crossing of King Edward River is not for the meak.
   Purnululu National Park (The Bungle Bungles): A rock formation that beats Ayers Rock many times aroundh. 4WD only so the tourist buses can't get in.

NORTHERN TERRITORY
Uluru - Kata Tjuta
(Ayers Rock - The Olgas): The most famous Australian place. Worth to see, even if the place is swarming with tourists and flies.
  West McDonnel Ranges: Ormiston Gorge, Simpson Gap, Hermannsburg Mission, Palm Valley, Meerenie Loop Road, Kings Canyon, Ernest Giles Road. An almost magic desert landscape west of Alice Springs.
   East McDonnel Ranges: I had to cancel this stretch due to problems with my vehicle so I can not tell you what it's like. But if it is anything like the west of Alice, it should be just as extraordinary.
   Chambers Pillar: Interesting stone formation southeast of Alice Springs. Sunrise and sunset are magic out here on the edge of the Simpson Desert.
   The Simpson Desert: The Big Red. Big, red sand desert southeast of Alice Springs. Accessed from Oodnadatta via Dalhousie Springs eastwards to Birdsville. Only for very experienced drivers. Not for single vehicles.
   Tanami Track: "Short cut" from Halls Creek Western Australia (close to the Bungles) to Alice through the Tanami Desert. I got caught by rain and managed to make my way back to Halls Creek, so I didn't drive it. People say it's easy, but boring.
  Gregory National Park: Huge national park on the Northern Territory border to Western Australia. Lots of challenging 4WD tracks. I did not go there, but people speak fondly of it.
   Litchfield National Park: National park south of Darwin. Less known than it's bigger neighboor Kakadu. Well worth seeing for the waterfalls. Pethericks Rainforest is a small gem that is surprisingly free from the onslaught of the caravaners. Most of Litchfield is sealed roads. Also very demanding 4WD track to Lost City.
   Kakadu National Park: Swarming with tourists, but worth seeing anyway. Great rock art, interesting talks from the rangers, amazing wildlife in the wetlands and shockers with mozzies. Mostly sealed roads, but also 4WD tracks.

QUEENSLAND
Lawn Hill National Park:
A paradise in the barren bush northwest of Mount Isa. Great canoeing. Too popular with caravaners for it's own good.
   Daintree Rainforest (Cape Tribulation): Commercialised, easy accessible. Good rainforest walks, good camping near the sea. Port Douglas is a relaxed town to go diving from. Port Douglas Dive Center in the harbour is a small friendly diving company.
   Bloomfield Track: The road from Cape Trib to Bloomfield that the greenies tried to stop in the eighties. The infamous Sir Joh Bielke Petersen built it anyway. Disaster for the rainforest, great fun for the 4WD driver. Very big hills.
   Lakefield National Park: Big national park northwest of Cooktown. Amazing birdlife. Good fishing, but watch out for the crocs.
   Cape York: Every aussie wannabe 4WD machos dream of an adventure along the Old Telegraph Road up to The Top. Many river crossings. I couldn't be bothered doing it, had been through so many rivers anyway and I didn't want to be caught in a traffic jam.
   Urandangi: One of the most remotest pubs in Australia. Home of the VB girl. Beginning of the Plenty Highway to Alice Springs.
   Plenty Highway: Desert track from Alice Springs to Mount Isa.
   The Sandover Highway is another alternative for this stretch. None of them are really "high ways". Don't go on them in 2WD vehicles.

© 1997-2001 Jens Hultman. Please mail me if you have any questions about outback travelling.